Anycubic i3 mega not turning on reddit. Business, Economics, and Finance.

Anycubic i3 mega not turning on reddit Apart from that, everything is stock. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Old post I know but this was extremely helpful thank you I just did this and used your settings and references. Unofficial, not affiliated with Anycubic. also highly recommend printing a new I've been having problems printing on my anycubic i3 mega. I got the i3 Mega S for about 3 and a half years now. I believe that I made a post about this a little while ago, but I havent had time until now to research this issue further. Bl touch on i3 Mega S. Looking for some help please! Had a print fail mid way through today at 8 hours of a 10hr job. Anycubic i3 Mega Pro stopped printing 1/2 way through a vase. (i attach the picture) I tried to reset, check all the cables, plug it off and on, nothing. Display still showed heated hot end and bed but both were cold. I'm not in front of my printer, but if I remember correctly turning the screws to the right (compressing the spring) lowers the bed. I started a print when I woke up and about 10 minutes into the print my printer shut off and won't power back on. Anycubic was nice enough to send me a replacement cable as well The bearings on their own slide without a problem, but the belt makes a noise when I turn it. 6 mm brass nozzle. Accelleration may be more due to having linear bearings vs v-slot wheels, not necessarily the frame in itself. com/thing:2753399 as the standard one is pretty crap. I'd like to be wrong though but looks like a short. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Even if you do trace your problem you're probably not looking at an easy fix. I am able to power the Trigorilla by USB when i move the jumper. Hi all! I changed to a 0. 0. If your cube is wrong in dimensions you must measure the diameter of the filament and determine a correct flow rate. I have changed the hot end so no clogs there. What i have printed so far looks good. I read that a lot of people had this problem but I couldn't find a solution. About 100 hours on the machine so far. The temperature of the extruder and the printbed went down after a few minutes. It seems as long as the motor has power it can "fight" that tension or gravity or what ever it is. Replaced the feeder tube. If it works in the left side and not the right, the problem isn't the connector, it's the wiring. The next time it happened, it was a bad roll of filament. The first few layers come out fine, but then on subsequent layers the gear on the extruder stops turning and no filament gets laid down. It's a longshot but if you're using the custom Firmware from Thingyverse, when i first installed it i had issues with barely any filament feeding. If you live in America it should be set to 110. The only way to reset the printer is to turn on/off the power. I didn’t unplug anything or mess with any firmware I just replaced the plastic extruder with a metal one. I need to remember this and not panic so quickly next time. Are there any experienced i3 users here who can lend some insight on printing minis, recommended settings, slicers, etc? I will mainly be using it for minis and terrain. I'm running the lastest marlin on the regular mega i3 with the trigorilla pro board, runs a different menu system and works like it should. Part cooling may need to stay 5015 for clearance issues but if you go 4010 or 4020 style that Maybe you tell us little bit more about your surroundings. It's not about the hardware in your rig, but the software in your heart! Join us in celebrating and promoting tech, knowledge, and the best gaming, study, and work platform there exists. The glass bed is nice though, no messing about, just wipe it clean with iso before a print and you are good to go. When i try to just warm up the bed on settings if you begin having issues with the extruder slipping or making noise larger/more complex prints, it's due to the extruder idler gear not providing enough force on the filament. Turned out the firmware (although saying Mega/Mega-s) had the default extruder E-steps set for the standard i3 mega (97. How to make anycubic i3 mega quieter? I've had the printer for about a year now and it bothers me so much just how loud the stepper motors and fans are. I was working on a print and got about 2/5ths of the way done when the extruder motor stopped pushing the filament. Compiling the firmware on VScode is pretty simple, use the config for the i3 and in platform io select the trigorilla pro envs. I see that 1. , but I'm running into some issues. In the tutorial the purpose of soldering is only to save you 2x 1m wires. I didn't turn it on for a week and when i came back to print a file, the printer just don't start, it stuck on the print screen with 0h00 timer and 1%. I think the probe is stuck and doesn't deploy when it should (i see in the your video a delay), which when it doesn't deploy right away, causes the alert state (the blue flashing lights. I guess they do have the auto resume but they don't have the titan style extruder. Temp sensors work fine, just no change in hot end temps. Once you understand how things work you'll understand soldering is not necessary. It has performed great and i've been very impressed. Not too sure, since I personally have not done the upgrade. I installed the… With the given amount of information it is unfortunately not so easy. I could send it back and then buy a new printer, but the process would take about a week and a half before I even get the new one. My anycubic i3 mega ultrabase edition did something very similar to me on my second print. Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! click here for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. I'm trying to get it to print through windows 10 via Cura (V 3. My Anycubic I3 Mega is completely stuck, it can heat up the heatbed and also the hotend, but it can't move, I can't change the vref of the driver because it can't go over 0,6 volt then it goes down to zeroI tried all I change the firmware, change the hotend, the thermistor, the bed, the entire motherboard and also the position of the driver I managed to get dual extrusion working on my Anycubic i3 Mega using just a second stepper + extruder, firmware update and 3d printed Y-splitter It was a struggle to get good gcode from cura, it keeps wanting to wipe/purge the second material/extruder even if it isn't used on the current (or next) layer, wasting quite a lot of PLA and takes These are calculated and must not be changed. I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S and have done some slight modifications like a new part fan cooling duct and mosfets for the bed and the hotend. Put the meter ground lead under the screw at the power supply 12v ground screwnot the AC ground. There is an upgrade kit to turn a mega 3 into an S. The only big problem is the voltages. I still could move the feedergear and filament by hand. Set it up, made many prints and had it dialed in just right. But the people who have said it does. The other mega i3 with the trigorilla pro board, I compile my own marlin for it with because no one seems to have it. My father and brother are very happy with their anycubic i3 mega. I used "Anycubic i3 Mega X-Carriage [MK4]" with the direct drive remix. And it is very hard to set zero, as there are two many factors that can make things go wrong. I managed to snag an Anycubic i3 Mega S off of Amazon on a lightning deal. I decided to turn on linear advance today. I'm super frustrated right now. 'Outer before inner walls' is another setting that seems to help a lot of people. Open up pronterface, and see what your thermocouples are reading, bed and hotend shout read room temp prior to heating. It does not take mountains of knowledge and experience so I'm surprised nobody bothered to explain. I printed the basic shapes and had no problem whatsoever. EDIT: nothing's catching, it turns out the belt roller is a bit loose and that caused the vibration. So before buying a new board i thought i could try updating the firmware (it is on 1. When I started printing, it stopped after a few layers. _S stands for the Mega S with the titan extruder. Unfortunately during the update it seems like the printer lost connection. 5 is available. Reply reply Cura's front-end uses the normal vectors to display the red parts, but the actual slicing process doesn't use the normals at all. The MacBooks are able to go downstairs but the PC is not so I have not had a chance to connect with a PC directly to the printer. I am repairing. I have a couple of these printing and I know them pretty well. PLA eryone silver Volcano 12v all metal 40mm fan Temps: 190-220 (in 5°C steps) Bed 60°C Retraction 6mm Stock extruder Printing speed 60-80 mm/s Nozzle 0. Mostly used it to print minis for D&D, and functional things for around the house. This has happened to me on the Mega X a few times. Could be that or the thermocouple set to the wrong type. I don’t like them because they are harder to upgrade and tinker with than my creality ender 3. Ok, I'm getting places, replaced the hot end, that had some problems, new tube, different filament, messed with the flow settings in cura, from 100% May 8, 2023 · To troubleshoot why your printer is not turning on, it may be necessary to examine both the power supply unit (PSU) and motherboard of the device. When I try to print via SD the printer do not heat up and the print never start. The settings get stored as long as I don't turn my printer off, but if I do, it'll reset to factory default values. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup. Now when i turn it on the display shows everything as intended, but there is no chime when turning on, all sensors show 0° and neither the SD card nor a USB connection work. The z banding was very bad on the i3, so I abandoned the gantry for aluminum v-slot design. If it was set to the wrong voltage, it would most likely go with a bang when trying to turn it on. He has firmware for the Mega X on there as well _X stands for the Mega X. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. I have a problem with the heating of the extruder and printbed of the Anycubic I3 mega. 2 Checked the left switch and all connections again, everything felt tight but I gave them an extra wiggle and push. I have 3x i3 Megas. You will still get some clogs from time to time. If you do not poke inside of the shielded power supply unit there should be only DC of max 12 V. A few days ago it simply stopped mid print. I just commented out all the errors it gave me. As of a month or two ago, my Anycubic I3 MEGA's hotend began refusing to heat, which occurred halfway through a print that I was not home to monitor at the time. Motors do not move (after period of layer shifts), hotend does not get hot, SD card cannot read anything. I've tried using different printer cables, in different USB slots, but nothing has worked so far. I recently bought the Anycubic i3 Mega off of Amazon and it started having problems with the power switch it will not turn on. something) whereas on the Mega-S the default E-steps are 381 or something similar! In my experience the part cooling fan below 70% does not spin up properly and just makes noise. I have an Anycubic i3 Mega that doesn't want to work. Running that on my Mega Pro and have it printing around 200 mm/s with minimal issues on Klipper and dual 5015s for part cooling. _BLT stands for the BL-Touch version with auto-leveling sensor. Other than knowing it is an AnyCubic I3 Mega that is all I know. Anycubic I3 Mega PLA 200c hot end 60c bed I am useing Octoprint with a Raspberry pie zero w Ultimaker Cura. My sister graciously gave me her i3 mega since she upgraded, i've never owned a 3D printer. I did write mega S when I meant mega Zero. I'm a new owner of a i3 mega s and i face the exact same problem. " I'm trying to upload the klipper firmware to my anycubic i3 and the button stays greyed out. I had the same problem. The mega S already has the upgraded extruder to make it easier. Btw my i3 mega is currently in shipping so I can't give specific advice, but I can tell you that if the board just can't provide enough juice for the two motors you'll have to cook up a simple transistor circuit, considering that the main board probably uses pwm to control fan speed (assuming it is controllable, some people online seem to have I have an I3 Mega that's been working fine until today. That finally fixed this problem for me. I am relatively new to the realm of 3D printing and I am trying to figure out the cause of an issue that I have just noticed. Sd card reading can not work sometimes, due to how it reads what's on the card. I've a i3 Mega S and could help you little bit to get started. I found a bulge in one of the wires, sliced it out and re soldered the wire back together. Anycubic i3 mega s print not sticking on bed Discussion So i tried doing a new print right after i tried the test print, the test print came out great but the new print kinda starts heaping up or just gets dragged with the extruder, should i lower the printing speed or turn the bed heating higher ? Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 1mm Speed : 40 mm/s on perimeters and support material First layer : 215 °C Other layers : 210 °C Bed : 60°C If you guys need more info, just ask and I'll provide it!! Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. thingiverse. After setting temps the bed heats, the hot end does nothing. There's also a bit of soldering to do if you want to be lazy like me and just reuse the extruder wiring instead of making a new one or changing the different molex connector that some thermistors and things comes with that are different from what's on the Mega's board. 0). If you use the wrong one it doesn't break the printer but can drive the motors the wrong direction. Also nothing heavy hit it or something like this, it just stood on top of the shelf and has not been used. When I first got my Mega, I didn't realize that the bed levelling screws worked differently than what I expected. It doesn't really matter that it eventually deployed. Hey, you guys recommended that i set up octoprint on my anycubic i3 mega after i made a post about it not being compatible with windows 11. Posted by u/Shinodacs - 1 vote and no comments I installed the software from Anycubic's support site for the i3 Mega X but have had issues with either the computer recognizing the printer and the software (Cura) even starting up. I purchased this printer back at the end of March from Anycubic on eBay. I have an i3 mega s and my hot end stopped heating. 1. ) Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. If the PSU is 12 volts you can easily swap most if not all to Noctuas to make it almost silent till part cooling kicks in. Once flow is set correctly you will probably still have wrong dimensions, that is your last step and compensated by the slicer. In your slicer activate a skirt at start. Hey folks. edit- I should add that I ordered the Anycubic Mega S last week after also going through the same decision dilemma as you. Originally because the roll of filament had been around without use for a couple months, and was dusty. My settings are as follows: Layer height : 0. My solution is to manually set the bed temperature to 70 degree and turn down the speed to 70% for the first few layers (for PLA) Hello people of r/FixMyPrint!. The Personal Computer. Flashed the firmware hoping that would fix it but no luck. I'm an owner of a Mega X, and I've been trying to save my custom settings on my printer, such as e-steps- PID, acceleration, etc. Turn off, yes (not unplug) and bed and hotend will not move manually. I have a couple of issues, the mainboard fan and the power supply fan does not turn on, is this normal ? Even when i'm printing. Had this with my i3 Mega - although I don't think it's the same issue - mine was caused by loose a connection between the build plate and motherboard which would cause the build plate temperature to register as 0 and so the print just stops. Saying that, I agree with you on the faster cooling is better part, just hope your fan isn’t as bad as mine. Turn meter to 2 vDC, turn on printer, touch and turn the driver potentiometer to your desired !eve!. Print slow and turn off retraction, make sure your nozzle is really clean before you start. Maybe but I don't think this is true because on the board there is a green light that turns on when the fan is active and it turns on when the hotend hits 50 degrees. But when switching of the motors the it drops on the left. No printing is possible and all I can do is boil water on it. After several seconds the main board makes several quick ticking sounds then the status lights on the board for heating power turn off. Iirc, Prusa sells 12v beds but by default they show you the 24v bed. My I3 Mega keeps stopping extruding at completely random times and its driving me mad. But to increase the extruder tension turn the screw knob on the extruder (where you push the filament into the tube) If this screw is loosened not enough pressure is built up in the hotend and it comes to this print. The screens show that the Hotend and bed are both at their proper temperature (even though they are not even warm), the pause button is unresponsive, and upon pressing the stop button it returns "Stopping Failed" and stays frozen. Is the power supply set to the right voltage? Hi there, so I got my first print on this machine to do fine, however when I went to turn it on a few days later after the print it wouldn't turn on… I've been printing with my setup for about 7 days now, and things were going well, until this morning. It appears that my printer extrudes filament when performing certain move actions, even though the file sliced by cura does not appear to have these extrusions. Went to take a video of the switch not beeping when ai pushed it and it beeped! Ran the Home -All command and everything moved like it should. Did you try plugging in the power of the X axis to the Extruder motor and see if the motor spins when you tell the X axis to move? One quick way to rule out if your stepper motor went bad. Can someone help me out? Been printing for about 1 1/2 week. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Nozzles are clean. In the beginning I was just playing around with it but the last couple of days I've been putting it through a lot (self-watering planters ;-) ). It is likely to happen if the first layer is not solid but with holes or other complicated patterns. So with my i3 mega turning it off fixed it. This setting should be switched to OFF. Finally got it to stick to my print bed and come back 30 mins later to all the parts having warped into various banana shapes, with some having come off the bed. It's always on full speed except if I tune it down in the Printer settings. I remember I had a nozzle problem back in the time and therefore changed it to a new nozzle. Tomorrow I print! Anycubic i3 Mega not recognizing files on SD card Discussion So basically whenever I plug in my SD card to my printer it says that an SD card has been inserted but when I go to the print section there are no files shown on the screen. Anycubic i3 Mega S Y-limit switch failure Question My Ai3Ms has suddenly withouth any prior warning developed an issue with its y-limit switch where it either does not recognize the signal of the switch or keeps moving despite receiving the signal from the switch. If anyone else did this to a Mega X (I assumer Mega S is the same) and it has 2 Z motor I was a little confused about your question about mega S or mega SE when I realized it was my mistake. When I select “insert filament” it pushes it out and when I select “remove filament” it pulls it in. I recently acquired an anycubic i3 mega-s. Now the hotend won't turn on at all and you can hear a strange sound near the 20s mark. Clip the other end to a little screwdriver with a metal shaft. I preheat for PLA and it worked fine. Next thing to tackle will be the driver fan, probably won't bother with changing the part cooling and PSU fan. It's not used to determine which parts of the mesh are on the inside, so I wouldn't think that fixing the normals would fix the g-code. . Replacing all fans might not be absolutely necessary. In my case the screw that connects the driving rod from the servo to the feedergear was loose and so the servo and the rod turned, but not the gear. I suspect a bit of something may have gotten lodged somewhere and caused a misalignment. I think there's a chance you need to lower the bed significantly. Obviously it shouldn't do that. Anyway about 80% through a 10 hour print the other night the printer randomly stopped. PETG on Anycubic i3 mega I have recently bought a roll of petg from Aurarum. It has firmware version 1. I plan to upgrade my Anycubic i3 mega S with a BL Touch sensor. The default acceleration speeds on the I3 Mega are crazy high when compared to some peoples profiles I've seen online, so I knocked it way down and it seems to improve print quality while not really affecting print time. Business, Economics, and Finance. I have an aging i3 Mega-S that I've had for a few years now. Is this common and I just hadn't noticed, or is it the symptom of a problem? Anycubic i3 Mega Pro makes buzzing/grinding noise when powered on, not nozzle head or bed. Anycubic i3 Mega X axis not working Turn back on and Try and move the X axis with the Anycubic i3 mega. Then on subsequent layers after that, the gear on the extruder starts turning again and the filament comes out sticking to the nozzle and building up a gooey mess bec Your hotend temp may be lower than the limit you set, so it is playing it safe and not turning on yet. Hello everyone. When i started tweeking the print settings like speed, acceleration and jerk in Cura, I realised that the printer wouldn't react to any of those changes. Welcome to r/Sauna! This is a subreddit for all things Sauna - Pictures of You and your Sauna - Sharing your building progress and questions - Whatever else you can think of Sauna related - Saunas are used around the world and we want to hear from you! View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. But I can live with it, because of being able to edit the config. This is my first printer, so I need help diagnosing the issue. The feeder wheel seems to just not be capable of gripping and pushing through the filament. My coworker is happy with his i3 mega, even though he has a snapmaker. I have a Not my printer. It was just chilling on top of the print. the fix for that particular issue is to print this: https://www. I just did a quick search for anycubic coupons and got a $5 dollar off coupon. Thanks also for the advice with the firmware but guess I don't feel comfortable to change that. I have an anycubic mega x and recently had to replace my extruder. Did not even know there is a mega S. Moreover, if I try to stop or pause the printing it gives me an error, saying that it is not possible to do that. I just want tips to make it quieter, I've thought about building an acrylic enclosure and changing the fans but I've seen those driver things that lower the current to make them quieter. so i guess it depends on what you are looking for in a printer. 6 mm nozzle and I now notice, that the hot-end of my i3 Mega is not able to hold the temperature during a print. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now anycubic i3 mega, SD card not working . The motor now runs backwards. Please, don't fiddle with the voltage switch (if you don't know what you're doing). Just get some and try it, works well on my mega with upgraded extruder. I noticed that when I move the bed back and forth when the printer is off, the printer turns on until I stop moving the bed. if you just want a printer to spaff out "ok" prints, then it fits the bill well. First you need to tell us your start code and for sure you should be much closer to the heatbed. 2mm extruder with PLA. Recently, it started an issue where sometimes it doesn't read the extruder temperature properly; if I turn it on with everything cool, immediately it may read the extruder at 180C or 250C, one time even 600C; everything was still room temperature. If you have a test lead with alligator clips, clip one end to the meter positive lead. I print pretty slow myself, but I get better quality off off v-slots than I did with the mega i3. This can be done using tools such as screwdrivers and a multimeter to test for normal voltage levels. Hello guys! My Anycubic i3 Mega was printing perfect on week ago. I contacted Anycubic and they are "working on a solution" and what replacement parts to send me (and rejected my suggestion of returning it) but I do not have high hopes. Look inside and see if the switch is to the correct voltage. But be careful not to shorten any other pins on the driver board. Or check it out in the app stores   Anycubic i3 mega extruder problem after tmc 2208 upgrade 24K subscribers in the anycubic community. Better off getting the ball rolling and getting them to ship you a replacement for whatever part they deem are malfunctioning. So far I've only replaced the hotend fan with a Noctua NF-A4x10 and my Mega-S already has gotten quite a lot less annoying. You reference the ground (black cable) on one of the large clamps and the red cable should make contact with the little metal cross/screw of the potentiometer. they all move when off and when motor is turned off, but not this one now. So I have had this machine for less than 2 weeks. I don't have an X, but if it's anything like my i3 Mega then check the (rods?) that the bed rides on. Manual mesh leveling is deactivated here. Crypto I am seeking help as I cannot figure out why my anycubic i3 mega won’t feed the filament. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. It only gets worse when I mount the bearings again on the plate that connects with the belt. I took the extruder apart, put it back together and it started feeding againI honestly did nothing else. thanks so much for that, octoprint is amazing and way better than what i was doing before, and i'm having a lot of fun experimenting and making cool things. 6mm Printer anycubic i3 mega s (modded) If if missed something, let me know. Change the anycubic i3 lcd to anycubic tft35 lcd. It is an original E3D 0. The brackets that held my rods were misaligned and made the bed horribly uneven, aligning the brackets fixed all my issues with flatness. I recently purchased an is mega-s and have been working it hard. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Hey, firstly you need to identify which version of the i3 mega you have (should be a sticker on the box if you still have it, otherwise you need to open up your anycubic i3 mega and look at the motherboard (if it's this one then it's 32-bit and you have version 04)). The lcd screen is different on this model so it doesn't need to be change in order to get all the marlin features on there. Good morning, lately I am experiencing an issue with my i3 Mega. The i3 mega is 12v. It's arriving tonight and I've never used a 3d printer before. If you have version 04 (like me) you need to do the sd card thingy, if its I don't have link but I am running BLTouch on my i3 mega without soldering. It will heat up to the desired temperature but it drops in the first seconds of printing. I am currently using a 0. Out of the box the printer should do something, even not optimized. I followed Anycubic's video (they show it on an i3 Mega as well) and wanted to re-level as recommended by Anycubic. This is for the mega S. Put a new hotend on it when I bought it second hand, and have since put another one on it. u/Ryoohk, were you able to solve this issue? Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. as someone with a factory stock mega s, theyre not great, but not bad. I have 2 MacBooks and 1 PC. Hello!! I'm looking for some tips to print miniatures on an Anycubic i3 Mega. Question I have tried formatting it in so many different ways This would be something to contact Anycubic support with honestly. Beyond that, I haven't mess with it much, just wanting to get it up and running on my machine. 1). "Firmware can not be updated because there is no connection with the printer. Right off the bat i noticed the power supply makes a crackling noise when power is cut. So to be clear: I have the mega Zero. The same happens if I move the extruder back and forth. I tried: Posted by u/timokl97 - 2 votes and 7 comments Once had the same problem with my Mega Zero 2. /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices. 2. Just got an i3 mega with an upgraded extruder that I installed. However this is the second printer this has happened to me. elox zjad atwbuub jsj jtqym alvb ubdrm jdzycx mspwa uyr kygy pnzu abujn pwnnm kipc